Local Rock CLimbing KNowledge
From the Clifton Crags half an hour from campus to Acadia National Park roughly an hour away, Orono is surrounded by enjoyable, quality climbing without the price of a long drive! Whether you’re looking for sport, traditional, top ropes, gym climbing, multi-pitching or more, you’re not far from it. Below are some of the many options around:
Maine Bound Adventure Center
A nice starting point especially for learning the basics! Can learn belay techniques, rent gear, and be in a safe indoor environment. Offers top rope, lead, and bouldering options.
Cost: Free w/ student ID or RecCard, or $100 Prorated semester pass
Hours: See website for accurate hours
Eagle Bluff – Clifton
Sport/Traditional/Top Rope
1-2 Pitches
This is a wonderful crag with a variety of climbing, there are some quality sport climbs ranging from 5.6-5.12a and trad climbs from 5.1-5.12. There is top access above the Practice Wall making it a great place to set up for a group.
Here is the Mountain Project Page for Eagle Bluff for more information.
Parks Pond Bluff – Clifton
Sport/Traditional/Top Rope
1-3 Pitches
Easily the most beautiful crag in Clifton with sunset views over Parks Pond. The climbing here is primarily slab with some vertical walls such as the Maple Run Wall. There are good areas for staging bags and practicing belaying.
Here is the Mountain Project Page for Parks Pond Bluff for more information.
Big Chick Hill – Clifton
Sport/Traditional
1-3 Pitches
Big Chick has fantastic slab climbing for the sport and trad leader. To setup top ropes requires leading or rappelling. The classic line on the hill is My Time (5.5 T). Well protected on gear for the first two pitches and a bolted third pitch makes for a fun cruiser afternoon for beginner or experienced leaders. Check out other classic climbs such as The Maine Line (5.11a S) or Snake and Bake (5.10b Mixed) for a full day!
Here is the Mountain Project Page for Big Chick Hill (Main Face) for more information.
South Wall (Precipice) – Acadia
Traditional/Top Rope
1-3 Pitches
Located in Acadia National Park and the tallest wall within two hours to Orono, The South Wall can be a full day adventure or a busy afternoon. Views from the wall overlook Frenchman’s bay. Up to three pitches of quality climbing on sticky pink granite can keep even the longest lasting locals entertained for a day or a season. Wafer step (5.5 T), Recollections of Pacifica (5.9 T finger crack) and Green Mountain Breakdown (5.9 T 2p) are some local favorites.
Here is the Mountain Project for the South Wall for more information.
Otter Cliff – Acadia
Traditional/Top rope
1 Pitch
Located in Acadia National Park and directly over the ocean, Otter Cliff is one of the classic crags in Maine. 60ft high at its highest, these rugged seaside cliffs offer wonderful vertical face climbing. Leading is possible at low tide but the ledge at the base will be covered at high tide so check the charts before heading to the cliff. This is a top access cliff with no walk around so anyone who goes down will have to climb, ascend or be hauled back to the top! The seagulls and the gumbies are bold so if busy expect a show. The quieter days are midweek, early morning or near sunset.
Here is the Mountain Project for Otter Cliff for more information.