Ice Climbing
Ice climbing is inherently dangerous. You should know how to belay
well and always be in tune with your surroundings. It is recommended that
beginners go on a guided ice climbing experience, take a course, or at least watch
educational/instructional videos before investing in personal equipment or
attempting to lead.
Hardware:
Having the appropriate and necessary hardware, as well as the knowledge to use it, is essential to safely engage in and have fun while ice climbing.
Belay Devices:
For ice climbing, ATCs are the more commonly used belay devices because they are light, easy to use, and needed to repel. Camming belay devices work just fine in some scenarios like single pitch climbs on crag days, but have a tendency to get clogged up with snow and ice on larger adventures. Follow this link for how to inspect your belay device.
Ice tools:
Ice tools vary in shape, size, and weight depending on the intended use for the tool(s).
Features of ice climbing specific tools:
- Curved shaft for comfortable climbing in steep terrain
- Hammer attachment on the back of the pick to knock off “chandelier ice”
- Note: Some tools have an adze or no attachments depending on climber preferences and intentions
- Caged grip to reduce knuckle bashing
Crampons:
Similar to ice tools, crampons also vary in design depending on the climber’s intended use.
Features of ice climbing specific crampons:
- Horizontal front point(s) allows the crampons to go straight into the ice when kicking in foot placements.
- Toe bails & heel clips give the crampons an added layer of security in addition to the straps *Note: Boots must be compatible with these types of crampons
Ice screws & draws:
To safely protect yourself while ice climbing, you should carry a full rack of ice screws (10-12) and a sufficient amount of quick draws/alpine draws for the number of screws you have. Widely speaking, however, ice climbing is considered a no fall sport.
Ice screws:
- It is important to have a variety of different screw sizes. Typically, you will have mostly medium-length screws (13 cm), but it is important to have shorter screws (10 cm) for thin ice, and longer screws (16 cm and up) for anchors and V-threads
- Screws are also made out of different materials. Steel screws are heavier but more durable, while aluminum screws are lighter but less durable. Both types of screws still act the same way
- Once a screw is in the ice, it essentially acts like a bolt in rock climbing
Draws:
- Draws get clipped to to screws once they have been put into the ice. The climber then clips the rope to the draw and continues onward
- Quick draws are sufficient for straight, single-pitch ice climbs
- Alpine draws are extendable and good to have for most ice climbing adventures. This allows the climber to go where the line looks best and reduce rope drag in the system
- The general standard is to have a mix of regular and alpine draws
Rope:
Because of the nature of ice climbing and environmental factors, it is highly recommended that your climbing rope has a dry coat finish to improve handling and function. A non-dry coated rope will become heavy and or freeze up while climbing. Ideal ropes for ice climbing are also mid-diameter (8.9-9.4 mm) and typically 60m or 70m in length. Additionally, twin ropes and/or half ropes are more commonly used techniques in ice climbing as apposed to rock climbing. Follow this link for how to inspect your rope.
Clothing:
With ice climbing being a winter activity, it is important to know how to dress appropriately. While climbing, you should have wind and waterproof outer layers and gloves as opposed to mittens. While belaying, a down puffer jacket is an essential article of clothing to maintain core body temperature. It is easy to get cold when you’re not moving! Follow this link for more specific information on winter clothing.
Katahdin:
Ice climbing on Katahdin is no easy task, but it offers easily the best lines in the
East. Many have described this mountain as if it belongs in the Rockies. For those
interested in staying at Chimney Pond in Katahdin’s South Basin, you must acquire
both a climbing permit and a camping reservation with Baxter State Park before
your trip. The approach is long and grueling, but the climbing is well worth it. To
see all routes and more specific information about climbs, follow this link: Mountain
Project.
Mount Washington Valley:
Conversely to Katahdin, the Mount Washington Valley region offers some of the most easily accessible alpine and sub-alpine ice climbing terrain in the East. Mount Washington is the anchor and test piece of this area, holding numerous classics in Huntington Ravine as well as Tuckerman’s Ravine. Park at the Pinkham Notch Trailhead is on RTE 16, and you’ll be all set. To see all routes and more specific information about climbs, follow this link: Mountain Project
Acadia:
Ice climbing in Acadia offers a much different experience than the two other locations mentioned. It’s most popular destination is at Otter Cliffs, where a great flow comes in over the open water. The cliff isn’t particularly tall, but it’s plenty widewith several different options to climb. Otter’s ice can be found off the Park Loop Rd just before Otter Cliff Rd. For more specific information information follow this link: Mountain Project
Falling ice:
Be on the lookout at all time, especially when climbing in alpine environments. Falling ice can be caused from extreme weather, temperature differences, and other factors. As the belayer, you are more vulnerable to ice fall from the climber above. You can try to mitigate this risk, but it is important to always be vigilant and focused.
Avalanches:
It’s more than likely you will find yourself in avchalache terrain in the mountain when pursuing an ice climb. Thus, it is important to be educated and aware of the terrain your getting yourself into. For more information about avalanche safety, follow this link: Link to Backcountry Skiing Avalanche Safety Page
Gear failure:
Though you never want to fall, ice climbing releys heavily on the integrity of your gear. Crampons, ice tools, ropes, screws, and harnesses all wear down over time, especially after repeated contact with ice, rock, and moisture. You’ll want to inspect your gear frequently and retire anything that looks damaged or questionable. Finally, make sure to place gear properly knowing that gear has limits too.
Grading system:
The grading system for ice climbing ranges from WI1 to WI7. WI is simply an abbreviation for “water ice.” Below is a general description of what each grade entails.
WI1 – Not really a practical grade, think walking on low-angle ice in a stream bed or something of that nature
WI2 – Ice up to 60 degrees in steepness. Good terrain for beginners to learn on
WI3 – Generally between 70 and 80 degrees, perhaps with a few small vertical steps
WI4 – More sustained ice of up to 85 degrees, may include short vertical stretches separated by good stances
WI5 – A steep and strenuous pitch of vertical ice, with occasional rests. May also include good, thin ice
WI6 – Think vertical ice for a long way. No rest here, sometimes the protection is not very good either
WI7 – Steep ice with dubious protection, very strenuous. Not many climbs achieve this grade
It is important to note that every climb is unique in its own way, and grading scales are rather subjective depending on the environmental, regional, situational, informational, and personal context of a climb.