Africa
Arican jewelry differentiates between the sexes, emphasizes the anatomy, and indicates social status and wealth, sometimes serving as a form of currency. Beads made from glass and precious stones, amber and gold, cowrie shells, ivory, and lost wax cast pendants and bracelets abound in African jewelry traditions.
The use of glass beads dates to the Ptolemaic period in Eqypt and Venetian glass beads were used as a medium of exchange from the 1500s on with smaller glass seed beads becoming popular in Central, Eastern and Southern Africa. Cowrie shells from the Maldive Islands were also incorporated into jewelry.
Yoruba Twin Figures from Nigeria
19 th Century
The Yoruba have one of the highest rates of twin births in the world.
Twins are honored with carved memorial figures when they die. These
figures, called Ere ibeji, carry on the spirit of the departed individual.
The figures are cared for ritually. The elaborate hair styles feature
indigo blue pigments.
Brass Donut Bead Necklace
Nigeria
c. 1960
Amber and Silver Necklace
Mali
This necklace would likely represent a significant part of a woman’s
dowry.
Ashanti Bronze Bracelet
Ashanti Necklace
Late 19 th to early 20 th century
This necklace includes gold lost wax cast elements and bauxite beads.
Ibo Ivory Bracelet
Ivory bracelets were worn by women indicating their social status—the
heavier the bracelet the higher the wearer’s rank.
Ashanti Fish Pendant
Pendants were used in ceremonial events by diviners to ward off evil
spirits.
Dan Passport Mask
Miniature masks worn as pendants were often commissioned by families
that possessed important family masks. These miniature versions served
as a means of personal identification when travelling beyond their
immediate community. Some were commissioned to provide the wearer
with protective powers or indicated that they were a member of a secret
society.
Dan Anklet
Mid 20 th century
A women’s social status was represented by the number and size of the
bells.
Fang or Kota Anklet from Gabon
Mid 20 th Century
This anklet represents a form of currency used in marriage transactions.
Yoruba Bracelet Currency
Maasai Beaded Necklace
c. 1960
Among the Maasai beaded necklaces were often everyday adornment
and they could indicate social or marital status. Sometimes they were
given as rites of passage or signs of respect and gratitude.
Zulu “Love Letter” Belt
19 th Century
This South African beadwork form was worn by women.