Lake*A*Syst - Landscape and Vegetated Buffers

Why Should I Be Concerned?

The removal of trees, shrubs and other protective vegetation to make room for the development of roads and houses has increased the amount of impervious area in the lakeside landscape. Native vegetation with its deep root systems and natural duff layer act like a sponge to hold storm water runoff and associated nutrients. Impervious surfaces result in more storm water running directly into the lake. Storm water runoff picks up non point source (NPS) pollutants like soil sediment, nutrients and chemicals that can be detrimental to lake water quality. NPS pollution that enters lakes affects the nutrient balance of the water and creates a bottom habitat ideal for weeds to root. It can cover fish eggs and habitat as well. Revegetate or allow native landscape plants to fill in the shoreland zone and you will increase biodiversity, increase wildlife habitat and protect your property values.

What is a Buffer?

A buffer is an area of land between developed property and the lakeshore where trees, shrubs and ground cover plants are allowed to become established, or are manually vegetated with appropriate (preferably native) plants. The best or ideal buffer for ecological and water quality value is a combination of tall trees, shrubs, groundcovers and duff. Lawn grass alone can not protect the lake and associated shoreline. Grass roots are shallow and are unable to filter out sediment and NPS pollution during rainstorms. While a well-maintained lawn may be a wonderful asset to your property, a buffer between the lawn and the water’s edge is essential to remove nutrients and slow down storm water runoff before it reaches the lake.

Components of a Good Buffer

Trees

This upper canopy intercepts raindrops. By breaking the fall of these tiny water bombs soil erosion is reduced. Trees provide shoreline habitat for wildlife, shade for your house and keep the water cool. Their deep roots take hold of the soil protecting it from erosion and slumping. Lower tree branches can be trimmed for people who prefer to have an unobstructed view of the lake, but the more tree branches the better.

Shrubs

The second obstacle raindrops hit on the way to the ground is shrubs. Shrubs provide wind protection and birds love to take refuge in them. Their roots also hold the soil in place. Shrubs are a great noise barrier and are low growing so they will not obstruct a view of the lake.

Groundcovers

Vines, grasses and flowers slow down surface water runoff and absorb nutrients and other non-point source pollution. Their roots hold onto surface sediments. Groundcovers that flower can create accents of color with a variety of green backdrops. They also provide habitat for such insects as butterflies and honeybees.

Duff Layer

Allow vegetation and woody material to stay where it falls. Accumulation of plant matter on the ground acts like a sponge, absorbs water, traps sediment and prevents erosion. Duff hosts microorganisms that improve soil by breaking down and recycling plant material into nutrients to be used in the growth of new plants.

Types of Buffers

A Natural Buffer

If you would rather be fishing and swimming in the lake instead of maintaining a lawn and landscape plants, than this method is the one for you. A naturally vegetated buffer is the simplest and least expensive landscaping option for your lakeside home. Decide where and how large an area you want as a buffer and then just stop mowing. Plants will establish themselves in succession. First, grasses and other groundcovers will grow. Then, as a duff layer becomes established (to allow duff to accumulate, do not rake the area) the soil conditions will be suitable for woody plants to grow. These native plants will be resistant to local pests, (which lessens the need for chemical pesticides), and they will be adapted to the climate (requiring less watering and protection from the elements).

Landscaped Buffer

If you prefer a more managed and structured look you can create a landscape design for your buffer. This means it will take less time to establish this protective strip of vegetation, but more effort and money will be required. You can still choose native plants for your buffer. Ask your local plant nursery what native, local plants they propagate, and which will require the least amount of fertilizer to be beautiful. University of Maine Cooperative Extension has produced two wonderful, informative brochures for planting with native plants: Native Plants: A 2002 Maine Source List, which provides a list of Maine nursuries and garden centers that sell native plants, and Gardening to Conserve Maine’s Native Landscape: Plants to Use and Plants to Avoid, which lists what plants are harmful to the Maine landscape as well as a list of native plants with recommendations on successful growing. Or you can, of course, combine the two methods; for example, allow some trees that are already established to grow and purchase some flowering shrubs to plant along the shore, securing it from erosion.

Lake Access

Another very IMPORTANT aspect of a good vegetated buffer is lake access. A winding footpath to the water helps shed runoff into the vegetation. Often times a straight path will act like a streambed, directing rooftop runoff right into the lake. Secure the walkway to prevent erosion with mulch, rock, groundcover plants or other materials. A beautiful touch for your access path is to edge it with plants like day lilies (if in the sun) or hostas (if in the shade). These plants have great root systems that will firmly hold the soil in place; they also fill in nicely.

Fertilizer

Fertilizer use can be another hazard to your lake. By reducing the amount of nutrients reaching the lake you can reduce the possibility of weed and algae growth in the lake. Fertilizer will feed plants in the lake just as it does on land. If the fertilizer you use for your buffer is applied before a large rain event, much of it may end up in the lake. Be mindful of when you apply fertilizer, if you use any at all. Also, stay away from using phosphorus-containing fertilizer in close proximity to the lake.

Phosphorus is the middle number on a standard bag of fertilizer (10-5-2) and it is what lake plants use to thrive. Zero phosphorus fertilizers are available at many agriculture and hardware stores.

The best way to find out what your soil has to offer your buffer plants, is to do a soil test. Soil testing kits are available at your University of Maine Cooperative Extension county office or online at Analytical Laboratory and Maine Soil Testing Service. You will receive an analysis of the pH and nutrients in the soil sample. They will also send you recommendations stating what you need to add to the soil to create a healthy vegetated buffer.

What To Do Next…

You need a plan for your new or improved landscape. Make a sketch of the area you want converted to a buffer.  Review the University of Maine Cooperative Extension factsheet “Designing your Landscape for Maine.” Ask your town Code Enforcement Officer if you need any permits for the work you are going to be doing. Take a soil sample to find out what nutrients are available.  And start planting!

Other Considerations

Install gutters and downspouts to catch stormwater runoff from your roof. If roof runoff is allowed to fall from 30 feet up, soil erosion will occur around the edge of your house. Water will also be more likely to be a problem under the house if you don’t direct it away. Collect the water in a barrel and use it to water your buffer, garden or lawn during dry days. If you have a good vegetated buffer, you can point the downspout to drain directly into the buffer area.

Buffer Assessment

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• Camp Road Maintenance
• Household Wastewater
• Lawn Care
• Recreation On and Around the Lake

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